Wine of the Week – Bonneau Wines, 2005 Zinfandel, Shenandoah Valley ($22)

June 29, 2009

06Zin-bottleWine of the Week!

Bonneau Wines, 2005 Zinfandel, Shenandoah Valley
$22/Bottle or $238/case (10% case discount)
Member Price = $19.80/bottle or $225/case (15% discount)

This wine was included in our June shipment to members of our sampling program “Maya’s Collectible Selections”.

It hails from the warm reaches of the Shenandoah Valley (between Lake Tahoe and Yosemite) in hot Amador County. This region is home to lots of big, fruity, “Monster” Zins, whose alcohol can exceed 16%.

This wine runs counter to that stereotype. It swims upstream. Marches to a different drummer, and a number of other hackneyed expressions that don’t come immediately to my fingertips at the moment. It enjoys an elegant body and a moderate 14.1% alcohol level with hints of fresh cracked black pepper that make this versatile wine – equally pleasing at the cocktail hour or the dinner hour.

A Classic Zinfandel With Pleasant Surprises!
For one, winemaker John Bambury has crafted that rare California Zinfandel that works well with food (recipe suggestion). The wine shows a beautiful dark fruit profile topped by a filigree of red raspberries and the tell-tale Zinfandel markers – mouth-watering wafts of dark licorice and fresh ground pepper.

From an old historic Sonoma family, this wine reminds me of the Zins I fell in love with in the 80’s. Pop the cork and drink a piece of history!

Just 420 cases produced.

Bonneau Wines, 2005 Zinfandel, Shenandoah Valley
$22/Bottle or $238/case (10% case discount)
Member Price = $19.80/bottle or $225/case (15% discount)

Happy MerchantCheers!
Dave the Wine Merchant
Dave@SidewaysWineClub.com

Quote of the Day
“To the sun that warmed the vineyards.
To the juice that turned to wine.
To the host who cracked the bottle,
and made it yours and mine!”

~ Unknown

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Wine of the Week – Peay Vineyard’s 2006 Syrah “La Bruma”

June 23, 2009

2006labruma1Today’s featured wine is named La Bruma (The Fog) after the frequent morning mists that cover the Pacific Coast where the Peay’s vines call home.

The winemaker – Vanessa Wong – says this wine has less pepper than the 2005, which I find surprising, since the pepper notes are what registered most in my taste memory.  They remind me of the peppery Syrah-based wines of Provence, only without the rough-hewn nature of those delicious but brawny wines. The wine is delightful, and will really kick butt if left in a dark, cool place for another half decade or so, if you have such a place and the will power to use it.

Look for floral notes sitting atop pie spices and warm, dusty blackberries. A bit of Beef Jerky and smoked ham (or is it Asian pork ribs?) on the palate, and a dark fruit and peppery finish that lasts for several minutes. The scuttlebutt in the industry is that there is more Syrah available for sale than the market can bear, particularly if the wine is priced over $30.  If that’s true, it’s only becaue more of them don’t taste like this one.  This is a wine you’ll enjoy getting to know.

Try the La Bruma Syrah with this recipe for Lamb Meatballs.

475 cases produced.

happy-merchant1Cheers!
Dave the Wine Merchant

P.S. I selected this wine for our Grand Cru members’ June shipment, and paired it with a recipe for Savory Lamb Meatballs.  For your very own copy, email me at dave@sidewayswineclub.com

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Funny Wine Video – Murphy Goode’s “Really Goode Job” Contest

June 23, 2009

The year 1994 was a big one for me.  I had just moved to the Bay Area from the Midwest, and living on the doorstep to the wine country allowed me to spend each glorious weekend scouting out ever more delightful tasting experiences.  In those days I pursued such forays for fun instead of profit, as I do today, though that profit thing is stubbornly elusive!

These weekend forays became sanity saviors.  During the week, the craft I plied was database marketing, and my employer was a financial services company.  Not one deemed “too big to fail”, but one large enough to have a very old boy network.  In the midst of that dreary suit-and-bad-tie society was a bright spot named Annie Sammis.  Intelligent.  Stylish. Funny. Hip.

Click to view video. Then "Vote for Annie!"

Click to view video. Then "Vote for Annie!"

Of her many redeeming features, perhaps my favorite was her love of the fermented grape.  In the 15 years since our careers parted ways, she has secured her place in the high-tech advertising hall of fame.  And now she’s throwing her famed marketing hat into the ring at Murphy Goode Winery, sponsor of the “Really Goode Job” contest. Here is Annie’s entry, out of which I think you’ll get a really “goode” kick.  (Note, as with Lay’s potato chips, you’ll find it difficult to stop after watching just one!  Fortunately, you can vote for all those you like)

Social Media & The Wine Industry
With this contest, I think Murphy Goode has struck on a brilliant piece of viral marketing.  By announcing that they will pay the winning entrant $100K in exchange for six month’s work as their social media guru (details here), they have obtained far more than $100K worth of public relations awareness.  Plus they’ll get a highly skilled marketer to boot, and will have given that individual a huge boost in awareness to be leveraged.

So far, almost 1,000 people have submitted their 60-second video application. Just as with the popular American Idol TV show, the quality of entrants is highly inconsistent.  Some are even painful to watch.  But thankfully, part of Murphy Goode’s decision has been left up to those of us in the universal wine community.  Your vote counts!

I’ve said for some time now that the wine industry has embraced  social media faster and more effectively than any other consumer goods industry.  They just seem to get it!  And while the pace of change and development is enough to make my head spin from time to time, I’m glad to be in the mix.  It is an interesting time to be a marketer.

happy-merchantCheers!  (And, vote for Annie!)
Dave the Wine Merchant

P.S. See her out-takes on You-Tube!

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Don’t Buy Wine for Father’s Day!

June 9, 2009

Stand up against the commercialization of Father’s Day!

fathers-dayIt’s now officially out of hand – Cafe Press claims custom T-shirts are the prefect gift for Dads, while Hog Island proposes oysters as the preferred path to proper Papa appreciation.  Square Trade tells you to buy him a warranty, for God’s sake!   Starbuck’s pushes Dad’s coffee, and I’m sure you’ve received dozens of offers to buy wine for Father’s Day.

Who needs one more voice in this cacophony?  Not me.  And since my wines (and postings) appeal to independent thinkers, I’m suggesting some fun alternative celebrations for the month of June:

Cheers!
Dave the Wine Merchant
Dave@SidewaysWineClub.com
866-746-7293

Quote of the Day
“My father used to play with my brother and me in the yard.  Mother would come out and say, ‘You’re tearing up the grass.’   ‘We’re not raising grass,’ Dad would reply.  ‘We’re raising boys.’”

~ Harmon Killebrew, American League Slugger.  (June 29th, 1936 – ?)

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Wine Merchant Honors Koko Taylor

June 4, 2009

kokotaylor2006Famed blues singer, Koko Taylor, died yesterday from complications following surgery.  She was 81.

Why am I writing about this in a wine blog?  Because she is part of a great, wine-fueled memory of mine.

It was in the late 80’s, a time which found me living in Chicago, my love of wine growing faster than a teenager.  After an extended night of wine sipping in one of Chicago’s many great restaurants (Cabernet from Conn Creek, as I recall), this wine sipper and his friends descended on a blues bar.  Koko Taylor was already part-way through her first set when we arrived.

We stepped into a packed house, so we naturally scanned the back of the dark hall for empty seats.  We saw a few (none of them together of course) and just as we started towards them I saw four seats – all together – on the far end of the front row. Musterring our Cabernet-fueled courage (though admittedly, this was the late 80’s, and the octane was not what it is today) the four of us excused our way past each person in the row, passing directly in front of Ms. Taylor’s massive presence.

Which did not go unnoticed.  And after bringing it home, she called me out, saying “If you want to take over my stage, you have to sing with me on this next song, it’s a little something I made famous called ‘Wang Dang Doodle’“.  She wanted me to sing in call-and-response to her “All night long” refrain (play video below, to remember this song as it SHOULD be remembered – without my contribution!).

Now, for those unfamiliar with my so-called singing, let’s just say that I’m no pro.  In fact, I’ve had several shower heads break in protest. The best thing my mother could ever say about my singing is “Well son, at least you have volume!”

Maybe that’s why, as the great Koko Taylor handed me a microphone, all my Cabernet courage drained away.  My response to her “All night long” refrain was the most feeble, timid, off-key response anyone could ever imagine.  And boy did Ms. Taylor let me have it with some good-natured ribbing after the song was over.

Koko, wherever you are, I thank you for the memory.

Cheers!
Dave the Wine Merchant
Dave@SidewaysWineClub.com
866-746-7293

Quote of the Day
“”Blues means what milk does to a baby. Blues is what the spirit is to the minister. We sing the blues because our hearts have been hurt, our souls have been disturbed.”

~ Alberta Hunter, 1895-1984.  Blues singer, songwriter, nurse.

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Travel With Wine, Not Honey

June 2, 2009

baggage-claim“I think that’s your bag, honey!” she said.

“It’s not the last one off the plane?  Yay!” I said

“I’ll get it” she said.

“Thanks” I said.

“I hope the wine’s OK” she said.

“It always is” I said.

“(Grunting) Got it!” she said.”

“Daddy it’s all sticky” the little she said.

“Something must have leaked onto it in the hold” I said.

“I just hope it’s not the honey we bought.” she said

“No way.” I said, knowing in my heart she was right.

honey-dew-2Next to several bottles of wine, I’d packed two jars of honey.   It was special honey, from bees who make their living pollinating plants in Spain’s fertile Montsant region.  (Actually, I doubt whether bees respect appellational boundaries, so some of their pollinating likely took place in the neighboring Priorat DOC/DOQ.  Blessed little trespassers!)

During my years of travel to foreign wine lands, I’ve always brought samples safely home by wrapping them in excess clothing and then snugly  tucking them inside my checked luggage (article here).

But not this time – the photo at right shows the honey-clad suitcase after unpacking the sticky mess. You should’a seen the clothes.

Up to now, I’d had a 100% success rate in bringing home wine samples unscathed.  So, why were the odds Gods working against me this time?  Before you abandon hope of using this (usually) reliable technique, you may want to consider two refinements to the basic technique:

  1. I packed so lightly, saving room for my eagerly anticipated wine booty, there was insufficient clothing to adequately wrap the honey jars.  Your goal is to prevent movement of the bottles, especially when your bag is mishandled.  If need be, recruit partially empty rolls of toilet paper and stuff them into your empty spaces.
  2. Three bottles of our wine were housed in a wooden box from Clos de L’Obac, and it was contact with the corner of this box that broke the honey pot.  Despite the attractiveness of wooden wine boxes, I recommend mustering your restraint and leaving them at your hotel, IF you plan to transport other breakables in the same bag.

All in all, I am still a confident supporter of this (usually) reliable technique, and continue to recommend its use for safely returning with wine samples intact.

It's hard work, but somebody's gotta do it

Cheers!
Dave the Wine Merchant
Dave@SidewaysWineClub.com
866-746-7293

Quote of the Day

“”The only reason for being a bee is to make honey… and the only reason for making honey is so I can eat it.”
~ Winnie the Pooh From ‘House at Pooh Corner’ by A.A. Milne

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Schist Happens

May 22, 2009
This is Schist - Classic Priorat Vineyard

This is Schist - Classic Priorat Vineyard

 

I’m taking a break from studying Priorat vineyards so I can write about Priorat vineyards.  It’s sick, I know.  But I leave tomorrow for six days in Spain, and I’m learning everything I can about the region.

Priorat (formerly known as Priorato) is Spain’s other DOQ (their highest regulatory standard for wine quality).  There are only two DOQ’s in all of Spain – the well-known Rioja region and the lesser known and far smaller region of Priorat.  Priorat was a wine region long before wine (and especially an obscure old world wine) enjoyed its current popularity.  Winegrower’s kids left in droves for the more attractive beach lifestyle, just 30 minutes away on the coast.  But a decade or so ago, a handful of adventurous young adults decided to return home, nurture the long-forgotten Grenache (Garnacha) vineyards, and “produce the best wine we possibly could”.  And, as they say, the rest is history.  This first release won raves from the global wine press, and suddenly demand exceeded supply – a condition that has not changed much today.

Priorat wines tend to be dark, well-oaked and very brawny, which is not normally my preferred  style.  But as with a few domestic wines (such the Rattlesnake Rock from Big Basin Vineyards), these big wines bring complexity and earthy minerality to the party, giving their joviality a depth that most back-slappers never know.  So instead of growing quickly tiresome, these wines pull you back for more, for one more sniff, one more taste… and the next thing you know the bottle is empty.  And you swear you’ve only had a few sips.  It’s that kind of wine.

http://elspampols.com/

http://elspampols.com/

Oh Schist!

What is it that makes these wines so alluring?  The smart money is on the soil, though I must use that word loosely.  As you can see from the vineyard photos here (click the photos to learn more), the earth that supports these vines is more rock than soil.  The local term for it is “Llicorella”, which is known as Schist in geological terms.  Schist is simply a unique sort of fractured shale with a pH that is nearly neutral (most shale is highly acidic), which I’m told makes it easier for the vines to convey more of the minerality so sought after by wine connoisseurs.  And in this case, the mineral flavor is reminiscent of slate, an evocative nuance that makes the price of the best Priorat wines hover in the mid-hundreds.

Upon my return I’ll recommend some of the more affordable versions of this wine.  No promises – I’m a retailer, not an importer – but if I can find some gems with U.S. distribution, I’ll bring them into my portfolio and let you know about them.  Meanwhile, support your local wine merchant!

Cheers!

Dave the Wine Merchant

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The Pinot Report – Great Info for Pinot Lovers!

May 20, 2009

pinot-report

There is a brouhaha brewing in the wine media.  It seems that bloggers are the new review service of choice, and that younger wine drinkers trust social media reviews over those of professional reviewers, believing the latter have been compromised in some way.   

Whatever you think, I’d like to highlight a reliable source for pinot noir reviews – Greg Walter’s publication “Pinot Report”.   Now here’s where I must admit my own bias, lest I be painted by the same brush of distrust – perhaps I enjoy his reviews primarily because Greg’s palate generally agrees with mine.  Which means he gives high scores to pinots of elegance and character, of nuance and delicacy.  IMHO, this is a publication for the true pinotphile.  Subscribe here ($75 per year) or for information on sending Greg samples of your pinots click here.

pinot-on-the-riverBut Greg Walters is a busy boy.  In addition to rating hundreds of pinots every year, he also organizes and sponsors the Pinot on the River event – on of several great opportunities to immerse yourself in a weekend dedicated to pinot perfection.  For information on this fall’s Pinot on the River event (October 23 – 25), click here (note, it appears the full agenda is not yet posted).

And for information on the June 12th “Russian River Passport“, featuring pinots from 40 producers in this famed growing region, click here.

Pinot lovers rejoice.

It's hard work, but somebody's gotta do it                       

 Cheers!
Dave the Wine Merchant
Dave@SidewaysWineClub.com
866-746-7293

Wine Quote of the Day:

“Cabernet Sauvignon is like a Black Labrador – it comes up and licks you. Pinot Noir is more cerebral – it’s like a cat.”

~ Scott Rich, Moraga Vineyards.  Submitted by Grace in Iowa

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A Wine for Cinco de Mayo, Palin’s Birthday, et al

May 5, 2009

cinco-de-mayp“It’s like cancelling the 4th of July to keep everyone at home” said one patriot, who shuddered at the idea.  But that’s what the fear of Swine Flu has done to Mexico’s traditional Cinco de Mayo celebration – an annual commemoration of their unlikely victory over the French in 1862.

What’s an online merchant to do?  The hordes of would-be Cinco de Mayo celebrants, once searching the internet for last-minute pairing advice, now sitting at home with idle keyboards. 

Unless, just maybe, I can find an alternative celebration that generates millions of alternative web searches.  And thanks to the power of internet search tools, I’ve found one – the birthday of Michael Palin (CBE) who was born back in, well, some years ago.

Michael Palin for President

Michael Palin for President

Palin Wine?

Palin is best known for his work with the comedy troupe Monty Python’s Flying Circus, back in the latter part of our prior century.  He then launched a second career as an award-winning travel writier and TV guide.   Then in 2000, he was beknighted.  Aftersuch career success most people would be content to fade into retirement.  But in 2008 Palin anted up his fame and fortune to launch a failed campaign for President of the United States, an ill-advised move that left a bit of a stain on his otherwise stellar and tasteful reputation.  I’ll bet McCain still won’t talk to him.

But enough silliness (is there ever though, really?).  Speaking of tasteful, and of something completely different, I’d like to turn the conversation to wine.  As always.

Whether raising a toast to Cinco de Mayo, or to Palin’s birthday, here is a wine that makes the best of both celebrations.  This was one of eight wines selected for our various wine club shipments that went out in April, and it’s proven to be one of the favorites, if subsequent re-orders provides any indication!

contour-front-labelNevada City Winery, 2005 “Contour” Bordeaux Blend – Affordable Luxury 
The 2005 Directors’ Reserve Contour is a blend of all five of the classic Bordeaux grape varieties. This wine melds the structure, charm and personality of each variety into a balanced, complex wine.

Cabernet Sauvignon takes the lead role at first, but more complex and layered aromas and flavors emerge as this wine opens up in decanter or glass (or cellar).

A blend of 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc, 7% Malbec, 3% Petit Verdot. Alcohol: 14.2% (perfect for food pairing).  Total Acid: .62 g/L (pH  3.79).

Click to Buy Nevada City 2005 “Contour”

$25/Bottle, $270/Case

Price does not reflect club member discounts

The Back Story 
More than a few small wineries have started in a garage. In Bordeaux they’ve even coined a word for it – Garagiste – generally referring to Mavericks who choose to operate outside the restrictions of their local winemaking traditions, and charging arm-and-leg prices for their product.

Nevada City Winery started out in a garage in 1980.  Since that time, this successful winery has enjoyed many expansions, but each has preserved the historic Miners Foundry Garage.  Visitors are often surprised by its smallness – about the size of a large living room.  The winery building, now centrally located, was on the outskirts of this two-street town back when the garage first served its residents.

By the way, the “town” is pictured on the label, the Gold-Rush town of Nevada City, California, where the wooden plank sidewalks and Victorian-era building facades make you wonder if you’ve just stepped into the film set for an old western.

But this is the second incarnation of this winery, the original was founded over a century ago during California’s first wine boom – sadly put asunder by the one-two punch of the devastating phylloxera epidemic in the late 1800’s, followed by the ruinous experiment in legislating morality known as “Prohibition”.  After that, the California wine industry was sidelined for four decades.

In 1880 there were over 300 acres of grapes in Nevada County. A century later the county was home to just one small vineyard. Today there are again over 300 acres of grapes and the wine industry is flourishing once more.

It's hard work, but somebody's gotta do it                     

Hard work, but somebody’s gotta do it

 Cheers!
Dave the Wine Merchant
Dave@SidewaysWineClub.com
866-746-7293

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A Toast to Mothers Everywhere

May 1, 2009
A Toast to Moms

A Toast to Moms

As Mother’s Day approaches, wine specials have flooded in.  From this avalanche of offers, you may have noticed how wine writers (especially the men, it seems) recommend “feminine” wines for Mother’s Day.  What characteristics evoke femininity in a wine is a curious thing.  As far as I’ve been able to tell, wine bottles come with neither the innie nor outie sort of naughty bits.  If they did, surely I’d have noticed by now.
Perhaps the easiest way to engender a bottle of wine is through its label.  A bottle wearing a label emblazoned with fire trucks, motorcycles, airplanes, fast cars, skulls or anything with flames… probably not one for mom.  Unless her Harley is parked out back.  There are always exceptions.
Though a label can hint at gender through the immediacy of our visual senses, our sense of smell and taste take over once the bottle is out of site.  A wine’s gender is implied by its characteristics – those that are lighter in body, smooth, nuanced and elegant are often referred to as feminine.  Those that are big, tannic, high in alcohol, and deeply infused with the color and flavor of very ripe fruit are considered brutish and masculine (neither of which are good marketing terms, so the industry prefers the phrase “New World Style”, AKA “Parkerized” in homage to the man who made them popular).
Mother's Day Brunch

Mother's Day Brunch

But in my experience, these stylistic classifications don’t actually seem to work when it comes to predicting which sex will prefer a certain style.  In my unscientific observations, women are perhaps a bit more likely than men to be fans of the New World Style, and if not more so, certainly no less so.

So where does that leave those in a quandary over a wine for Mother’s Day?  With lots of great options, actually!  
The Bantem Weight
Let’s start with pairing the wine to the meal instead of worrying about Mom’s palate preference.  The former trumps the latter in the end.  If selecting a wine for brunch the key is to find something with a light hand on the alcohol, a wine that doesn’t leave the group comatose after an hour at the table.  Both the earliness of the meal and the typical fare argue for wines light in alcohol and body (but then, I repeat myself). 
Sparkling wine lends itself nicely to the brunch meal, but here’s the twist – opt for the off-dry Demi-Sec instead of the usual Brut, or the often over-looked Prosecco or Moscato (sorry I have neither of these in inventory, but here are some favorites from other retailers – Ferry Plaza Wine Merchant, Arlequin Wine Merchant.  These options are particularly adept at complimenting fruit salads, sweet rolls and other mid-day fare.  And if you’re meal involves egss of any sort, a touch of sweetness will be key – dry wines and eggs fight like unhappy siblings. 
For meals with more robust flavors, don’t overlook the blush wines, though even many of these are being made with high alcohol these days – opt for something below 14%, if you can find it.  Other options abound, including a good Riesling or Gewurztraminer.
What About Mimosas?
Ahhh, the old mimosa.  The key here is to avoid the expensive stuff, as their nuanced flavors and lighter bubbles get crushed under the weight of the orange juice, without serving rock-gut Charmat-style bubbly.  I recommend the Charles de Fere ($19 no on sale for $16) mixed with no more than 1/3 to 1/4 orange juice.  And for a beautiful variation, top it off with a splash of grenadine, POM or (my preference) Framboise and a fresh raspberry.
The Middle Weights
Opt for Pinot Noir and bolder blush wines if your Mother’s Day meal is bigger than brunch.  These food-friendly wines span the range from light and elegant (such as the Molnar Family ‘06 Pinot, $34, or the  Au Bon Climat ‘05 Pinot from Los Alamos, $35) to the richer style with higher alcohol, deeper color, and warmer flavors (Oak Savanna Cellars, ‘05 Pinot, $37 or the William James ‘06 Pinot from Garey’s Ranch, $38).  For a fun and memorable change of pace, the adventurous will kick themselves for not trying the Cabernet Franc-based “Chukker” ($24) from Happy Canyon Vineyards – still a lighter red wine, it is richer than the  part way between the Loire style and the Bordeaux style, as this warm-weather vineyard comes into maturity.
  

 

The Heavyweights
The Heavyweights

The Heavy Weights

These wines are lush in sweet, ripe-fruit flavors with enough alcohol (14.5%+) to suggest they be saved at least until late afternoon.  These are the wines often described as “Masculine”, but I find them equally favorited by those with the double X chromosome as those with the X-Y.  

 

 

Wines made in this style includes many of today’s California Zins (a good example is the Brochelle ‘07 Estate Zinfandel, $36), a wide spectrum of the Rhone world (such as Andrew Murray’s ‘05 Syrah, $25 or the bigger and earthier ‘06 Petite Rousse, $28 or even the uniquely Aussie-styled wine from Barossa Valley – Torbreck’s ‘08 Cuvee Juveniles at $24.50).
Whether your Mother’s Day  plans involve brunch, lunch, supper or dinner, or whether your family structure requires all four, this spectrum of wine suggestions provides a pairing for every situation.
It's hard work, but somebody's gotta do it               

Hard work, but somebody’s gotta do it

 Cheers!
Dave the Wine Merchant
Dave@SidewaysWineClub.com
866-746-7293

Toasts & Quotes for Mother’s Day:
“The moment a child is born, the mother is also born.  She never existed before.  The woman existed, but the mother, never.”    ~Rajneesh

“You don’t really understand human nature unless you know why a child on a merry-go-round will wave at his parents every time around – and why his parents will always wave back.”  ~ William D. Tammeus

“Sing out loud in the car even, or especially, if it embarrasses your children.”   ~Marilyn Penland

“Never raise your hand to your kids.  It leaves your groin unprotected.”  ~Red Buttons

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